|
Gateway to Hoa Lu
Once the centre of both the Dinh
and Early Le dynasties, little of Hoa Lu now remains except
for two temples, renovated several times throughout the centuries.
These are the temples of the Dinh emperors, Dinh Tien Hoang
and Le Hoan. Of the two, it is the 11th century temple of
Dinh Tien Hoang that is of most interest. The gardens are
littered with the crude statues of animals that were believed
to be divine, while the rear room of the temple is dominated
by the imposing statue of the first Dinh emperor - Dinh Bo
Linh.
Bo Linh ruled over an unruly kingdom, choosing Hoa Lu as
his capital because the valley in which it sits could be easily
defended. However, defending the capital and bringing order
to the insubordinate Hong River Plains, turned out to be entirely
different problems. Frustrated by continuing banditry, the
surly Bo Linh installed a large kettle and a caged tiger in
his palace courtyard, proclaiming that all who broke the law
would be "boiled and gnawed!" Disorder subdued, Bo Linh returned
to his Buddhist studies.
Hoa Lu began its decline after Emperor
Le Hoan died in 1006. His replacement, Ly Cong Uan - a former
temple orphan who had ascended through the ranks of the palace
guard to the position of commander - moved the capital for
his newly-founded Ly Dynasty to what is today Hanoi and the
former capital fell to marauders and bandits over the ensuing
centuries.
The Dinh emperors are buried high
up on Lang Ma mountain, their spirits looking out over the
empty plains where once their mighty capital stood.
|
