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Prasad Hin Phanom Rung must be
the only ancient temple in the world to have a pop song written
about it - a part of it at least.
 Built
on the cone of an extinct volcano, between the eleventh and
twelfth centuries, during the height of the Khmer empire,
Phanom Rung was an important link on the pilgrimage road from
Phimai, near Korat, on the empire's border, and Angkor Wat,
240km to the east. It is highly revered by the Thai people
and was the recipient of a 17-year, multi-million baht restoration,
which was completed in 1988. The local people are so proud
of the temple and the restoration work that every April, during
the Songkran festival, they hold a separate celebration to
commemorate its completion with a procession, sound and light
shows and open-air theatre in the temple complex,.
 The
only blight upon the restoration of Phanom Rung was that,
during the early sixties, art robbers had stolen a decorative
lintel that had once graced the entranceway at the east corner
of the temple complex. Known as the Narai Lintel, it was eventually
traced to the Art Institute of Chicago in 1976 by Professor
Diskul of Silpakorn University, Bangkok. In early 1988, with
completion of the restoration nearing, Thailand launched a
massive diplomatic and media offensive to have the lintel
returned. Newspapers printed vitriolic editorials condemning
the Art Institute, Thais and Americans demonstrated on its
steps, and the famous Thai rock group Carabou had a hit with
"Take back Michael Jackson -Give us back Phra Narai." The
Narai lintel was returned in 1989.
Since the restoration's completion, the temple is now at
the centre of the spacious Phanom Rung Historical Park. From
the temple's vantage point, atop its small hill in mostly
flat Northeast Thailand, there is a commanding view of the
Dongrek mountains on the Cambodian border - beyond which lies
Angkor Wat. However, it is for the remarkable stone relief
carvings, that the temple is best beloved. Images of Shiva
and Vishnu, Naga (serpents), sculptures of Vaishnava and Shaiva,
and reliefs of events from the Hindu creation story, adorn
the many walls and porticos. But many experts concur that
the most beautiful sculpture of all at Phanom Rung is the
Narai Lintel, which is now back atop its entranceway, looking
east, towards Angkor.
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